#10: Domaine du Pelican 2019s

This Jura domaine's latest release.

If you’re never been to Arbois, it’s a like a little magical wonderland of its own. Slightly isolated located off the main highways nestled close to the Jura mountains, it feels like something out of fairy-tale book compared to the manicured perfection of Burgundy. They have now released their 2019s, which are absolutely S-T-U-N-N-I-N-G compared to other lacklustre 2019 Burgundy whites I’ve tried previously. Older Pelican drank more uptight and Burgundian; now newer Pelican seems to have a lot of more confidence in letting her hair down being fully Jura Jura, now truly beautiful wines that have blossomed with a lots of depth, nuance and flavour.

From the outset, it is clear that the 2019 vintage at Domaine du Pelican is another positive evolution, after the delicious 2018 vintage, on the road to “Jura expression”. We can clearly see the increasing winemaking confidence from the team which is firmly in its 6th vintage now. This puts Domaine du Pelican with the best of the best in the region. 2019 vintage releases also introduces a sparkling wine, made of 100% Savagnin, the ‘Cuvee S’. It completes the already strong line-up of regional and single vineyard Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir.

Taken by me during a visit, June 2019.

The 2019 Vintage

The vintage was early because of a mild and wet winter that led to an early budbreak in April. April and May proved to be very dry, with low temperatures between 3-4°C. Spring and summer continued to be dry, causing a loss of 20% in the vineyard to poor fruit setting (coulure). By mid-June to July, temperatures rose to 40°C.

Some producers in the south of Jura lost their entire production to sunburn. Domaine du Pelican was lucky in this regard and ended up harvesting in mid-September. Harvest was quick and lasted a total of around 2.5 weeks. For the first time, the team paused half a week before harvesting the Poulsard at the optimal maturity.

The resulting wines are concentrated but without the high alcohol levels and the typical sensation of warmth of some 2019 whites from other regions in France.

The Wines

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Poulsard 2019: Excellent ripeness and succulent red fruit on the nose, with slight touches of kirsch and herbal spices. It is very accessible now even so young, with gorgeous ripe strawberry and raspberry notes on the palate, completed with fantastic minerality and a long saline finish. One to drink well either on its own or with food.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Pinot Noir Clos St Laurent 2019: This cuvée was formerly labelled Arbois Pinot Noir. It is now labelled with the name of its vineyard, which is located directly behind the winery. Compared to the Poulsard, the nose is less open but quite concentrated with hints of cherry, bramble and sweet spice. This is more concentrated and serious than the previous 2018 Pinot Noir. In the mouth, it has excellent punch with cherry, raspberry and strawberry notes with a clear aromatic and perfumed finish. This is no Burgundy pinot but the very distinct Jura pinot noir, something singular and unique!

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Trousseau Beranger 2019: This is a majestic, opulent and powerful wine from the get-go, with profound red and black fruit notes, lots of complexity and layers both on the nose and palate. It is a broad wine yet it retains elegance and silkiness. It has an appealing sous bois and mushroom lift on the mid palate and finish. One to try now but also forget in the cellar while it ages patiently.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Trois Cepages 2019: Delicate and refined cherries and raspberries, peppered with deft touches of bramble, cedar and forest floor notes. It is a pure, lively and refreshing wine that is easily quaffable now young but also with enough structure and acidity to age effortlessly. A serious beauty with personality and inner depth and layers.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Chardonnay 2019: This is a big departure for those who have tried their previous vintages of Chardonnay. It drinks as ultra-Jura now and less Burgundian than previous vintages. The nose is full of almond and nut notes, incredibly racy and full of tension in the mouth (‘nerveuse’ as the French would call it). Lovely touches of lime, pear, green apples and silex. There is no sense of heat on either the nose or palate – truly an astonishing testament to the level of viticulture and vinification.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Chardonnay En Barbi 2019: There is a distinct difference between the single vineyard Chardonnay En Barbi and the classic cuvée. Here the nose has more salinity than nuttiness. The palate is equally saline and reminiscent of the alluvial soil, which was under the sea millions of years ago. It has this appealing touch of white flowers and a long mineral finish. A definite gourmand wine that needs time to really showcase its full potential.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Ouille 2019: Pronounced herbaceous notes that are accompanied by layers of lemon rind, green apple, sea salt and white flowers. There is also a strong underlining mineral backbone to the wine that carries it from beginning to finish. This is also quite more-ish, meaning you want to keep drinking more of it. In its youth now, it is more austere than past vintages in their youth, but will be incredibly powerful with time.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Grand Curoulet 2019: Crunchy green apple and pear notes with touches of elderflower and minerality. It is quite racy compared to the more opulent 2018 vintage. Long and tensile finish. It will require some time to open fully but will reward you for a long time to come. Definitely reminiscent of certain grand cru Chablis or Burgundy.

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Savagnin Maceration Pelliculaire 2019 :Bright, fresh, full of citrus and citrus rind notes. The fresh and fruit forward characters are matched nicely with touch of flint and chalk. This is Guillaume and Francois’ 2nd incursion in the orange wine/skin contact wine territory.

Domaine du Pelican Brut Cuvee S NV: ‘Cuvee S’ is made mostly from a 2018 base wine, spending 1 year in foudre. It is then blended with 10% of 2019 vintage for the second fermentation in bottle. Disgorgement takes place after 13 months in the cellar, without any dosage or any added yeast. It is dry and 100% Savagnin. It is vinous with aromas of fresh flowers and drinks well as an aperitif.

If you are interested in any and you live in Hong Kong, please let me know.